tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6768155807535736792024-03-06T03:50:15.110-05:00Minis Like DustBlog dedicated to my various and sundry wargames minis projects, as well as my plastic modeling hobby.Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.comBlogger53125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-57740851495072217292012-05-20T16:17:00.001-04:002012-05-20T16:17:17.013-04:00Project: DML's PanzerKampfWagen III Ausf. F 1/35The Panzer III was the premier battle tank of the German army in early WWII. Designed alongside the Panzer IV, it was designed as a breakthrough tank, with good armor (for the time) all around and a cannon designed to punch holes in other tanks, as well as for throwing HE (unlike the PzIV at the time). While there were not many Pz IIIs available for the Polish campaign (less than 100, much of which were pre-production prototypes), more were available for the French campaign, and was a mainstay for Operation Barbarossa, the invasion of the Soviet Union.<br />
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Dragon's kit depicts an early model, the F version. This was the 2nd main production version, differing only slightly from the Ausf E version (armored covers for the brake cooling system, and a modified engine). Indeed, at first glance it looks like one could build an E if you wanted to. While many Ausf E's and F's were later remanufactured with the 50mm L/42 KwK, this kit depicts the earlier variant still armed with the 37mm L/45 KwK, as well as twin coaxial machine guns. <br />
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I remember Dragon back in the old days, when they were issuing mostly 1/144 aircraft, and a small portfolio of their own original kits: mostly Soviet vehicles that suffer today from inadequate research (this was in the late '80s) and/or toylike features (operating hatches on the BMP, BTR, and BRDM series kits, seriously compromising detail). Later they would being issuing kits using molds from other manufacturers, such as Gunze and Italeri, with modified or reworked parts where neccessary. Eventually they would issue better kits, and this model is a long way from those early days.<br />
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If I could use one word to sum up this kit it is <em>complex. </em>I didn't do a parts count, but there are quite a few, along with Dragon's "Magic Track" and a fret of brass photo-etch parts. As usual, Dragon likes to get the most from their molds, and there is always a slight feeling of mix-'n-match with their kits. In this box alone there are sprues from their StuGIII and Panzer IV kits, alongside some sprues from other versions of the Pz III (Like the J model). This also means you sometimes get multiple sprues with the same letter designation. I had at least 2 sprues labeled "A" that were completely different, as well as sprues labeled "B".<br />
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Going slow is the way to build these kits, not only because they're expensive (this kit retails for over $60, though I got mine on sale for $26!), but because all of the detail and complexity will reward a slow and deliberate build.<br />
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So far I've managed to complete the hull. I still have to mask off the torsion bar axels, as well as a few other areas, in order to prep it for priming. This kit will get the standard dark gray of early war German tanks, so I'll be using a black primer, especially as the dark gray was fairly dark when newly applied. Weathering will do the rest to fade it.<br />
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Most of the photo-etch was fairly routine to add, without a lot of complex or confusing bends. Some, however, were pretty confusing to <em>apply,</em> not helped by Dragon's questionable intructions. A big issue was how the two fender supports (the brass bits towards the front in the above picture) attach. It took a great deal of test fitting to get them in there. As one portion rests on the tow shackles, I reccommend installing the towing shackles first, before attaching the PE components. Also the headlights were a bear to install, with very narrow gluing points.<br />
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Here is the tail end of this kit. The little brass circles on the rear fenders are cut-outs that allow the fenders to be raised in especially muddy conditions, but allow the night formation driving lights to still be visible. These can be protected as needed by flaps, represented in the kit by either photo-etch brass, or a plastic fender with these already lowered. Using the PE is the way to go for appearance purposes, but it might be less frustrating to just use the plastic piece. I use a slight dab of super-glue to bond the part, but cappilary action seems to have pulled the glue up into the fender seams. This meant I had a lot of difficulty getting a good bond with plastic cement, and the fenders kept falling off! I think I may have it now...<br />
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Currently I am working on the commander's cupola (which came from one of their Pz IV kits...not a suprise as they were the same in the real world!), and a failing of Dragon's instructions is once again evident. Assembling the vision blocks was a chore, not because they were difficult or very tiny, but because Dragon's instructions are not clear. I reccommend gluing the vision blocks to the lower ring first -- the tab is supposed to go <em>between</em> vision blocks, before gluing it to the cupola drum. You are also provided with clear parts to make the actual vision blocks, and this will make painting more challenging!Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-4640005668387691902012-04-15T17:07:00.000-04:002012-04-15T17:07:19.795-04:00Project: 1/35 AMX-13 VCI<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-N9w1PoQgCbbBWB6MJRYsHJiATxOoLswcTYhMojR9qOF4pN6wVe8rzs1Lazu8CzE0TxuG4es5EFiuzXjNZ6P8iok2U3DfyRPnQpfFLPN6o40WJX2u032T-OzTaR0d5Duf4NSbLLjJHk8f/s1600/100_0227.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="164" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-N9w1PoQgCbbBWB6MJRYsHJiATxOoLswcTYhMojR9qOF4pN6wVe8rzs1Lazu8CzE0TxuG4es5EFiuzXjNZ6P8iok2U3DfyRPnQpfFLPN6o40WJX2u032T-OzTaR0d5Duf4NSbLLjJHk8f/s320/100_0227.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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I picked this kit up some time ago as an impluse buy. I was vaguely familiar with Heller as a model producer, having worked on a Somua H-39 and wa-ay back an AMX-30. They're not a top-notch producer, but often if there is something you want that is French, they're the ones to look at first.<br />
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The AMX-13 was a post-war light tank, using an oscillating turret (that is, the barrel is fixed in elevation, and it is the turret itself that raises and lowers!) and a cannon initially based on the WWII German KwK-42 75mm L/70. As things go, the AMX-13 was converted into several different variants, including a 155mm SP Artillery vehicle, an artillery supply vehicle, and of course this subject: an APC.<br />
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The AMX-13 APC came in 3 major variants: the Early variant (VTP) with an externally mounted 7.5mm machine gun on a commander's cupola, a Mid-production variant (VTT, later VCI) with a small turret mounting a machine gun, and the penultimate variant (VCI M-56) mounting a 20mm cannon in an external remote turret.<br />
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Although the AMX-13 VCI is no longer in service with France (replaced by the AMX-10RC), it still soldiers on in many other armies, being an export success to many 3rd world militaries.<br />
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Heller's kit represents the VTT (nee VCI, before name change), and as kits go, you can know what to expect from this manufacturer. First there are quite a few parts with a lot of break down of shapes. This isn't neccessarily a bad thing, and based on the photos I've looked at, certainly looks the part. But it also means there are more areas where fit can be a bit dodgy, and that is certainly true here. <br />
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The two biggest obstacles to construction in this kit are the terrible tracks (mine broke when I was testing out the pliability, not a good sign), but worst of all the entire rear hull of this kit was badly warped. The kit comes with a mostly full interior for the infantry compartment, but given the complexity of painting, and the warped hull, I decided to model all the hatches closed (though you can open the drivers, infantry egress, and side hatches, as well as the turret hatch). This made fixing the mess of the upper hull a bit easier. Despite that, I still needed some filler on the rear corner to finish it up.<br />
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The rest of the build went pretty smooth. The kit comes with 2 crew (with fairly mediocre heads) and several infantry. The infantry are interesting since they represent the '50s to '70s kit, with semi-auto rifles (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAS-49_rifle">MAS-49s</a>) and a light machine gun (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AA-52_machine_gun">AA-52</a>). Again the heads are a bit bland, so I'm planning on replacing with Hornet heads (they do a set with French style postwar helmets), though the vehicle commander's head will be more difficult to replace (I cannot find anyone that does a '60s style French Armored crewman's head!)<br />
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For the tracks issue, I'm planning on getting a set of AMX-13 tracks from Accurate Armour.Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-13512883539585888912011-12-11T19:53:00.000-05:002011-12-11T19:53:34.313-05:00Project: 1/35 Tamiya SdKfz.251C/10 Part 2Occasionally in the build process you come to a point where you have to wonder about the effort of moving on, and what is needed.<br />
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The Tamiya kit stands here, half completed. The roadblock is that the interior looks more challennging than I had first estimated. I'm not thinking that I will need to pick up the Eduard set for this kit, if for no other reason than it provides seat backs for the fighting compartment interior. Of course this will be more money too...Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-65107482940600869362011-12-11T19:35:00.000-05:002011-12-11T19:35:05.614-05:00Project: 1/35 Aer ASU-57Accepted into service in 1951, the ASU-57 was an attempt by the Soviets to develop an airborne, air-droppable light AFV to support Soviet Airborne forces. While the 57mm Ch-51 cannon was more effective in the anti-tank role than the 76.2 D-56T cannon then arming the PT-76 tanks, it would stilll have had trouble dealing with heavier tanks and the like. In addition the armor protection was barely worthy of the term. Still, in an air-landing operation any tank is usually better than no tank, and the ASU-57 was successful for a number of years until replaced by the ASU-85 and ultimately the BMD-series of vehicles.<br />
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When the Soviet Union collapsed, and the Warsaw Pact dissolved, there was a lot of hope from modelers of seeing what the model hobby was like in the East. What had been a trickle of kits in the Glastnost era became more common. Aer of Moldova was one of the first companies marketing kits in the west. Unfortunately I have no idea what the status of this manufacturer is anymore, lacking a web page, and not much in years in terms of new releases. Still, the kits can be found from time to time, and this is certainly an unusual subject...<br />
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When one gets a new kit, the range of emotions one can go through ranges from "Cool!" to "Hmmm...." and finally "Can I live with this thing?" Usually this range of emotions happen during the actual build process, but in the case of Aer's ASU-57 kit, you'll get there just from opening the box.<br />
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In a word, the kit is terrible! Fit is overall sloppy, with the hull sides "spiderwebbed" with what looks like the result of insufficiently hot styrene during the injection process. Also the gun barrel was riddled with sinkmarks, and actually shattered while I was trying to construct it. You absolutely <i>must</i> invest in aftermarket parts just to complete the model. This is a real shame, but I can't complain as I got the model for a mere $3 several years ago from Ebay.<br />
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Into the mix I added Eduard's <a href="http://www.eduard.com/store/Eduard/ASU-57-1-35.html?cur=2&force_sid=16e2fb5b75d0decbb7e0619b9bb24d63&listtype=search&searchparam=asu-57">35734</a> ASU-57 1/35 photo-etch kit, from Modelpoint MP3550 ASU-57 return roller set, and MP3529 Ch-51 57mm barrel. The entire Modelpoint line may be OOP as their website no longer registers and most stocklists seem to be out of product. I'm also thinking about picking up Miniart's <a href="http://miniart-models.com/index.htm?/35064.htm">35064</a> Soviet 57mm & 76mm Shells w/Ammo Boxes. The Ch-51 cannon could fire the range of ZiS-2 ammo as well as more modern rounds, so this set will work if not specifically accurate.<br />
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Construction starts naturally with the lower hull. This is where problems began. Lacking the technology (at the time, or perhaps capital investment for better molds), the lower hull does not benefit from multi-part molds like found with Asian manufacturers, and instead is built up from several flat parts. Fit was sloppy, and required a lot of filler (the white spots in the photograph are the results of this. I have attached a handful of photo-etch details as well. I have also begun modifying the upper hull to accept the photo-etch parts.Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-73071870323269398652011-09-19T22:02:00.001-04:002011-09-19T22:04:59.965-04:00Project: 1/35 Tamiya SdKfz.251C/10<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFfMyfCHAG89EK19Wr_j-X2Q1yGfVmU2y4PHuwEowyIveLhqFr48mBokP_19eqJKQzezeIZMpTXlrE6MX2VA08c1ZcoIkCQwamvZ_P_DKthqvFtpSVgDiSk9QrKe6v_Qd8efZPjlAKzWj0/s1600/100_0156.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFfMyfCHAG89EK19Wr_j-X2Q1yGfVmU2y4PHuwEowyIveLhqFr48mBokP_19eqJKQzezeIZMpTXlrE6MX2VA08c1ZcoIkCQwamvZ_P_DKthqvFtpSVgDiSk9QrKe6v_Qd8efZPjlAKzWj0/s320/100_0156.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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The SdKfz.251 was the standard armored personnel carrier for the German Army in WWII. Compared to its closest competitor (the US M3 half-track), it had better armor protection, but poorer cross-country mobility. Interestingly, while many countries experimented with the APC concept -- such as Italy and Japan -- none deployed them in the numbers the US or Germany did, unless they were supplied via Lend-Lease (such as in the case of the British, and to a lesser extent the Soviets).<br />
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The 37mm PAK 35/36 was the standard anti-tank cannon of the German army in the pre-war and early war period. When it was developed in the mid-30s, it possessed adequate anti-tank performance for the era, but quickly grew obsolete, especially when Germany invaded the Soviet Union. Although able to deal with older tanks like the T-26, it was completely inadequate when fighting T-34s or KV-1s (dubiously referred to as the "Doorknocker" when combating these tanks, indicating it's paltry performance against the armor of these tanks).<br />
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Early on, the decision was made to combine this anti-tank gun with the chassis of the standard German APC, to develop a platoon commander's vehicle, able to support dismounts with direct fire from its 37mm cannon (firing High Explosive shells), or provide limited anti-tank capability at the platoon level. While inadequate when combating tanks, the 37mm would still have been effective fighting lighter armored vehicles, such as other APCs, armored cars, and even light tanks in some circumstances.<br />
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Both Tamiya kits -- the <a href="http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=35020">SdKfz.251C (#35020)</a> and the <a href="http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=35035">PAK 35/36 (#35035)</a> are what you might call "Golden Oldies." Both kits were issued in the mid '70s (1973 and 1974 respectively), at a time when Tamiya had very little competition in the 1/35 scale, and only a bit more competition from the likes of Revell and Monogram in the US (some kits were allegedly 1/35 -- particularly from Monogram, but many were actually 1/32), Airfix in the UK (again 1/32), and domestically in Japan from the likes of Bandai (1/48 mostly) and Nichimo (1/35). Later in the 1970s the field would be joined by Italeri, who had interited their first kits from Peerless Max.<br />
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For a long time both kits were the only game in town if you wanted either one. That changed in the '00s when Dragon began to release its series of half-tracks (also joined by AFV Club from Taiwan, and even Zvezda from Russia). Unfortunately these kits did not age well when compared to the competition. The 251 is a scale foot too narrow (though it certainly looks the part, and the scale issue is not as apparent to me), and the interior is very sparse, to say the least, lacking many interior parts, such as the seat backs for the infantry benches! The PAK comes off a bit better, and has lots of nice detail. Still not up to current standards (the gun shield is molded as a solid plate, when it should be 2 spaced armor plates), but the PAK retails at $7.50, and it's hard to get anything in this scale anymore that cheap. Similarly, the half track goes for $17 retail, again rather cheap in this era. These are great kits for kids to get into the hobby, while still being cheap enough for experienced modelers that want a challenge.<br />
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One of the nice things about the PAK 35/36 kit is that it comes with mounting parts to convert the Tamiya SdKfz.251C/1 into a /10. As this came out in 1974, this might be the very first commercial conversion kit!<br />
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I've had both of these kits in my "stash" for some time, long enough for Dragon to release these very kits and make them obsolete. As can be seen in the photograph above, the SdKfz.251 box has weathered quite a bit in the years of sitting around on store shelves and in my basement. Not liking to waste anything, I've determined to actually put these kits together, perhaps scratchbuilding the seat backs, adding racks for the 37mm ammo, and a few other details here and there.Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-7925085180549257582011-07-11T22:43:00.000-04:002011-07-11T22:43:42.663-04:00Noble Armada: A Call to ArmsSome long-time RPGers may remember the Fading Suns RPG from Holistic Designs. A side project by some of the people writing for the popular Vampire RPGs, while the rules were a bit clunky, the setting was fantastic, very evocative and as dark as you want it to be. There weren't too many supporting games for the RPG, but one of the ones that came out was Noble Armada, a ship based game that could either be integrated into the RPG, or played as a stand alone.<br />
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Unfortunately Fading Suns never got the recognition I think it deserved, and has been floating in "edition limbo" for the past few years (work is being done on the 3rd edition, to be published through Print on Demand). That's why when Mongoose announced it was going to team up its A Call to Arms starship combat engine with the Noble Armada concept, it was quite a surprise.<br />
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The rules, published in a practical (and inexpensive - $30 at the time of this writing) hardback format, comprise a mere 28 pages. This includes standard, advanced, terrain, and special rules, making for a very economical usage of space. Following that is background material ("fluff") which comprises a whopping 28 pages as well. For most gamers, the Fading Suns universe is probably fairly obscure, so all this fluff is probably necessary in order to give enough background to care about the factions.The next 17 pages are scenarios (quite a few!), followed by 12 pages of campaign rules, a page on unusual situations, and a page on minor houses (more fluff, a bit strange including it here).<br />
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Much of the rest of the book is in color, and is taken up by some starter fleet lists, some terrain building tips, and the requisite (for a minis game) pages showing off the minis themselves (which I like to call "figure porn..."). The latter portion of the book is a bit of a letdown. While the ships themselves are well painted and shown off to good regard in the fleet lists, the "in-action" photos leave a bit to be desired. Say what you will about GW games, but their figure porn pages are always excellent, with a high level of modeling not just in the figures, but the terrain itself. As the point to these games is to collect and game with the figures, I think a little more attention could be spent here.<br />
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I have yet to play the game, but there are already plans for it to go off later this week. I hope to post some reflections on the game at that time.<br />
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A note about pricing. If you're looking at a new minis game to get into, Noble Armada is fairly cheap as they come. The rulebook itself is only $30, and you can get fleet boxes (usually with a light carrier, 2 destroyers, 4 frigates, 2 galliots, 2 scout ships, and 8 fighters of 2 different types) for around the same price. Usually these boxed sets come in at around 1370-90 points, enough for a small to mid-sized game. A beginner could easily drop around $100 to $150 and never have to purchase anything else; that includes the rules, 2 fleet boxes, and around $60 of blisters to round out the fleet, making this a pretty inexpensive game to get a good variety of forces and minis for (you could just get the rules and a fleet box for $60, though, and have a decently rounded force for smaller games). Of course there is plenty of incentive to go beyond this (new ships, and any serious minis gamer will want to tweak his list from time to time -- or even overhaul it completely), but with the most vocal concerns about minis gaming being the entry costs, this isn't too bad at all...Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-24300164418074477292011-07-08T22:29:00.000-04:002011-07-08T22:29:01.428-04:00Plastic Soldier Company Panzer IVIn the last year or so there has been a very real explosion of plastic kits available on the market, creating a boon for wargamers.<br />
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One of the first to the market (besides some plastic upgrade parts offered in Battlefront kits) is from Plastic Soldier Company. While these kits are simplified, they are nonetheless designed for wargamers, simple to construct, but still offering sufficient details for a good appearance.<br />
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The kit offers a whopping 4 different versions to construct: F1, F2, G, and H. While this is of obvious benefit to the modeler, unfortunately out of the box only one variant can be made accurately: the short-barreled F. To make any of the other variants, you will need to modify the kit parts in several ways. Most are easy to accomplish.<br />
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Panzer IVF2: This variant is a bit more challenging to build compared to the others, and requires additional materials to do it well. The primary problem is that the muzzle brake depicted in the kit is the incorrect type, being a double baffle type, when it should be a single baffle type. To make more accurate, remove the muzze brake and use a plastic bead as a replacement. When glued on, drill a single hole through the bead fro the side to produce the muzzle brake. You can also model a late version by removing the circular flare hatches from the driver's comparment hatches, and the vision hatches on the turret front-sides.<br />
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Panzer IVG: This is the second easiest build in the kit. Simply remove the left-hand vision hatch next to the main armament, the 2 vision hatches on the turret front-sides, and the flare hatches from the driver hatches. You can also model this tank with skirt armor, as some Gs (especially late) receive this upgrade.<br />
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Panzer IVH: This version is a bit more challenging than the G, but can be done in much the same way. Do all the modifications for the G, with the addition of a single-piece circular hatch hinged to the side (opens to the left, if you view the tank from the front). Although some of the early production Hs were bare, many received Zimmerit, and this is a real challenge to add to this kit. The manufacturer can't be faulted, as this would have made a kit with excessive parts, and thus made it much more expensive as well as challenging to build.Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-16150344099886617422011-07-07T14:04:00.000-04:002011-07-07T14:04:57.316-04:00Mantic's WarpathI have to admit I don't have a whole lot of respect for Mantic. They seem to be a company that base their business model on cheap plastic minis (which is good) designed to pluck away at Games Workshop's market share by duplicating everything the big company does, and give disaffected GW gamers something GW decided wasn't profitable enough anyway (chaos dwarfs -- though back thanks to Forgeworld, and not-Squats). <br />
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When Mantic announced their new SF game, I had my predictions, but nonetheless let out a small groan when it was announced the first two races would be Space Dwarfs and Space Orks, just re-treading old ground. Still, the Warpath rules might be adaptable to use 40K figures and play a different game. I downloaded the game rules (only 16 pages!) and the two army lists for Space Orks (Marauders) and Space Dwarfs (Forgefathers) with the idea of giving it a fair shake...<br />
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Now I should state this is <em>not</em> a playtest review, but rather my reaction to reading the rules. Reading what I have to say should be done with that bias in mind.<br />
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In the end, it's a little bit good, a little bit bad, and a little bit <em>why???</em><br />
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For all intents and purposes this is Mantic's Kings of War ported into an SF setting.<br />
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If you're familiar with GW's core games (and apparently Warmaster, as I am told this was an inspiration), the statblock format of the army lists will be familiar; Type (unit type), Speed (movement), To Hit (dice roll needed to score a "hit"), Firepower (how effective ranged combat is), Attacks (number of melee attacks), Defence (how hard it is to score a "hit"), Nerve (catch all for morale and unit size). Each has a value, and like GW games might have a special rule or two.<br />
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One of the good aspects to the rules is how heavy weapons are handled. Comparisons with 40K is natural (since Mantic seems bent on being a GW clone), but one aspect I dislike about 40K (as of this writing 7-7-11) is the fact heavy weapons cannot fire at a different target, unless there are special rules specifically allowing it. Mantic defines all heavy weapons (Called BFGs in the game: Ballistic Fire Guarantors, not Big F%$*ing Guns, a bit silly here) as being able to split fire with another target. In 40K you could destroy a transport with a lascannon for example, causing the occupants to forcibly dismount. Yet you cannot then fire at this unit with small arms -- the troops are required to fire at the transport instead. In Warpath this is not a problem, and makes for a more realistic aspect.<br />
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Another is how difficult terrain is handled. Again, comparisons to 40K are natural. In that game, difficult terrain is handled by a die roll for how far you can move -- maybe you get lucky and can move 6", or unlucky and move only 1". In Warpath you simply count movement as double in difficult terrain; a much more elegant and simple solution.<br />
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Another is a nice set of simple modifiers to shooting, especially for long range targets. Whereas in 40K there are no such modifiers (cover is handled by a "cover save" which may or may not take precedence over your normal armor save), in Warpath there are around 6. Especially useful and interesting is a penalty for firing at more than half range.<br />
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Yet another is aircraft rules core. This allows aircraft to be integrated from the start of the game, whereas in 40K aircraft rules are presented in Apocalypse (for very large games, probably where these rules belong anyway). <br />
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Finally another is that allies rules are core. On the surface this may seem to be a great feature (again in 40K there are no allies rules; allies can only be taken in the Apocalypse expansion), but as presented they are horribly generic. Simply stated, you can take <em>any</em> race as an ally, as long as you adhere to the army list restrictions (basically for every core troop you have you can add a special troop; so long as in your allied force you have a core, you can add then an allied special troop). There is a note that "some alliances are unrealistic, so don't do it!" For some this wide ranging freedom allows for a lot of list tailoring, but I would have liked some concrete rules on allies, such as is done for Warhammer Fantasy (basically if you take a cross-type allied force, they might turn out to be unreliable for you!). <br />
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But there are some bad aspects to be sure.<br />
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Like 40K , Warpath uses true line of sight. For those not familiar with this, especially for non-minis gamers, this basically means, what your model sees, he can shoot. In 40K this requires a lot of crouching down to "see" what your models can see at eye level. I personally prefer area terrain that blocks line of sight, as it is less fiddly, and prevents the feeling of fighting on a "compressed" battlefield (if anyone thinks that in 38,000 years small arms weapons fire can only go 112' when a Mauser G98 of First World War vintage can hit an area target out to 1400 <em>yards...). </em>Personally I could do without this in either ruleset.<br />
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Furthermore, iindividual models are further de-emphasised. Gameplay assumes combat from the perspective of the unit. This is borne out in the stats (no need to roll individual weapons fire) and in unit choices (which, as the game is a marketing tool for the minis line, happen to exactly coincide with the box deals you get from the manufacturer). One complaint I've seen from Warhammer detractors is that often models are nothing more than casualty markers. While this is true (but unavoidable if you want company level games, such as 40K presents), Warpath takes it one step further an miniatures are mere decorations within the unit. This works (and is desirable) in smaller scale games, such at 15mm. But if I'm going to invest in a 28mm game, I would want a bit more detail in how my minis perform on the table. In the end, you might as well base squads together on a movement tray, rather than fiddle with individual movement.<br />
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Riding along with the point above, there is no casualty removal but you must track unit damage, creating paperwork that must be tracked. You can use a die to represent unit damage, or other methods familiar to long-time gamers (like casualty rings). In the end, it probably doesn't matter much and you can house-rule casualty removal as long as you remember the original starting unit size, since individual figures are mostly decorative.<br />
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Yet another detraction from the game are horribly generic vehicle rules. Essentially, vehicles "act" like a squad armed with a certain number of BFGs, and modified movement rules. They have the same exact stats as a squad, and act sort of like an independent character. Furthermore, shooting at vehicles is handled the same way, but only weapons with the <em>piercing </em>special rule can actually harm them. While there is something to be said in terms of economy of rules and elegance of a unified mechanic, you run into problems in that the rules are <em>too </em>generic. Since vehicles do not have varying protection depending on what side is being hit (this is modified by a bonus when firing into the side or rear arcs). This creates problems in terms of both verisimilitude and realism, assuming that <em>all </em>armored vehicles are better armored in front, and less armored on the sides and rear. Take for example early versions of the WWII German Panzer III, which had 30mm of armor all around (it was designed for offensive operations, so it was thought it would need good armor all around to resist surprise fire from concealed anti-tank guns). In Warpath such a tank could not exist, and similarly something like a 40K Land Raider would also not exist. Of course this can be modified by special rules, but a better way could have been devised making such a thing unnecessary.<br />
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Finally, I think the worst aspect of this game is how it handles charges and melee combat, in the form of a "melee bounce back." According to the rules, if you charge an enemy unit, after you resolve your close combat attacks, you are required to make an mandatory move: "If, on the other hand, your unit did not manage to destroy its enemies and is still in contact with them, you must pull back, executing a D6" move..." (p.8). The only question I have is <em>why</em>? As a rule this makes absolutely no sense: why would an assaulting force that has not destroyed its enemy pull back, and not engage in another round of melee if its morale is intact? Since the move is only D6", this means that the defending unit can now execute a counter charge. While admittedly this makes combat a bit more bloody, it absolutely makes no sense. It would have been <em>much </em>better if either unit could make a Nerve test to disengage from combat and fall back (something 40K does not allow either, alas). But if we look at real-world assaults, the assaulting unit would not "bounce back" if it failed to take the enemy in the charge, but would find itself stuck in until either the enemy unit breaks, or the assaulting unit does, though occasionally a unit might be able to disengage if it has good leadership and discipline. In Warpath this happens <em>every</em> time. In my opinion this is a terrible aspect to the rules, and for me is a huge detraction.<br />
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In the end, the rules are free, and technically they are beta rules (so they may change). I wasn't impressed with Kings of War either (if I was going to play a "unit" or element based game, there are better ones out there), and I'm not particularly impressed with these. Warhammer 40K has its rusty bits, to be sure, and if you want to play a different Company level SF skirmish game, there are plenty of other good rulesets out there (like Stargrunt, or the free Fast and Dirty rules, or 5150). Personally I'm going to give these a pass...<br />
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Download at: h<a href="http://www.manticgames.com/Sci-fi.html">ttp://www.manticgames.com/Sci-fi.html</a>Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-15538676063367051212011-01-20T22:34:00.000-05:002011-01-20T22:34:53.110-05:00Project: 1/48 Panzer III Ausf. M Progress IVHaven't posted a while, but here's the latest progress on this model. It is almost done! Really, just need to finish painting a few details (like tools), perhaps use a wash or two, and add a little weathering...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIpm3chRgIY4aLNSHJspYlPPizY0hkvX5AM10p-D82fxwzH6ZLSeEwY8bVfLFC0kYGBmZu4xr9go0R3tpr6XjX_QROQv0XWFkWUvPJETn2sc465IqfFXWqLqfju7hdEQdwg8RgvYlxoqB_/s1600/100_0078.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIpm3chRgIY4aLNSHJspYlPPizY0hkvX5AM10p-D82fxwzH6ZLSeEwY8bVfLFC0kYGBmZu4xr9go0R3tpr6XjX_QROQv0XWFkWUvPJETn2sc465IqfFXWqLqfju7hdEQdwg8RgvYlxoqB_/s320/100_0078.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Here's a rear shot of the vehicle. I use Micromark's RustAll to rust up the muffler. It's basically a very thin alcohol based wash, and you have to add quite a few coats to get a good depth of color. But the results are worth it.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoFQACihMa4znalkJ7Elgxq22BSL6AOrGV1lDvIt-57-VuZa2BXTt14rwaFLIxn_6niWvIdo52kwpeOme4a1v5q-Oo_Vjn37kUuwPIuA1SMrxW5ltN8ZADOOJNxB2khyphenhyphene8RABGKxmR9aAX/s1600/100_0079.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoFQACihMa4znalkJ7Elgxq22BSL6AOrGV1lDvIt-57-VuZa2BXTt14rwaFLIxn_6niWvIdo52kwpeOme4a1v5q-Oo_Vjn37kUuwPIuA1SMrxW5ltN8ZADOOJNxB2khyphenhyphene8RABGKxmR9aAX/s320/100_0079.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-28607644722628197772010-06-12T19:43:00.000-04:002010-06-12T19:43:09.516-04:00Chaos Space Marine World Eaters Terminators<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg0-3IJCyxAgKCbqY3FezqKxKbsOyoPK5JiypLdnoaOvl6YEk0UVMIHi93ZoJtrq_OkL3Fz4fz58-EFDu6oM5sSBAEYZeFs4q9L-GFtDGhUvQT8uciXnaSBkw8ybnkX6qZ0Kl7BvgQ6OYn/s1600/Picture+053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg0-3IJCyxAgKCbqY3FezqKxKbsOyoPK5JiypLdnoaOvl6YEk0UVMIHi93ZoJtrq_OkL3Fz4fz58-EFDu6oM5sSBAEYZeFs4q9L-GFtDGhUvQT8uciXnaSBkw8ybnkX6qZ0Kl7BvgQ6OYn/s320/Picture+053.jpg" /></a></div><br />
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Terminators are probably some of the coolest figures in GW's catalog. This represents a few months of work, doing a little bit at a time. I think the results are well worth it.<br />
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The technique I used on these involved a base-coat of Testors Model Master Gold Leaf spraypaint. Some artists use Testors metallics as a base primer to expose flaws in their work, and it works well; both the Gold and Silver spraypaints are quite thin and have very good coverage. The advantage here is that I get a very good gold base (for the trim on the armor), while at the same time providing a basecoat with very good bonding properties to plastic.<br />
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Next I hand-painted the red areas using GW Red Gore paint. I applied this a little thicker than normal, in order to get sufficient coverage over the glossy gold paint (too thin and it just beads up), with subsequent coats thinned to 50% paint/water.<br />
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The only modification I did was on the unit sergeant. Rather than use a kit provided head, I replaced it with the "fanged" head from the Khorne Berzerkers set, customizing my models slightly and tying it more into my World Eaters Army.Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-45150258061984487372010-06-12T19:28:00.000-04:002010-06-12T19:28:10.631-04:00Forgeworld World Eaters Chaos Space Marine Dreadnaught<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx69KwN_n1o88aAmO_CaHOKGw4wCli4Nxgc2Tj2mH4Vz0KAMMMRxoGYQZOQqmmvp14YkdktCDP1TIsqf_rPDf4Am_x1C1LvGfbhx5kHgClxT8ye_XGN2RUYDq3myBlqZGk5fwLXHEz5d8-/s1600/Picture+052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx69KwN_n1o88aAmO_CaHOKGw4wCli4Nxgc2Tj2mH4Vz0KAMMMRxoGYQZOQqmmvp14YkdktCDP1TIsqf_rPDf4Am_x1C1LvGfbhx5kHgClxT8ye_XGN2RUYDq3myBlqZGk5fwLXHEz5d8-/s320/Picture+052.jpg" /></a></div><br />
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The Dreadnaught has always been an iconic unit within the Space Marine armies of Warhammer 40,000. Available to both the loyalist Space Marine chapters, as well as the Chaos Space Marines, the latter has been saddled for years with a very dated, all metal dreadnaught model with few options.<br />
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Forgeworld, a subsidiary of Games Workshop/Citadel, fills a niche in the colletion, aiming at producing products Games Workshop either doesn't cover, feels is not profitable enough, or provides customized and high end products for the enthusiast.<br />
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One important series is its collection of Chaos Dreadnaughts. For the most part these are unique units with their own iconography or imagery, and many are specific to sub-factions within the setting.<br />
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As I have finally settled on World Eaters as my Chaos legion of choice, it was only inevitable that I pick up the Forgeworld model, particularly as the UK Pound to US Dollar exchange rate is the most favorable it has been in years. In order to keep initial costs down, I ordered just the body, and will order the arms at a later date. This also gives me more time to consider the exact load-out I should use.<br />
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Over the years Forgeworld has been criticized for poor casting quality (or, at least, quality not equal to their price). To be frank, I have yet to get a bad cast from Forgeworld, and this Dreadnaught continues that trend. With only one flake of flash on the leg, the casting of this piece is flawless.<br />
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The purpose of this blog is to document the building and painting process of this guy. Although I have come up with some efficient techniques, I'm going to push this up another notch and see what I come up with.Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-40160620854952300462010-05-17T09:34:00.000-04:002010-05-17T09:34:49.718-04:00Project: 1/48 Marder IIIM<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcIRwtZPb6oKqXGWRWcJa8JecbXNnCCB6YEomkVUSUSHchMsuz97-Bbut3YYsWGgYj5itjcgjs-And023jkZ64U7aglBqyX1IU5dwvrpBZU5EQVXmO6J9it-BWOgxyFWWbf8dCONP4IXHX/s1600/Picture+051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcIRwtZPb6oKqXGWRWcJa8JecbXNnCCB6YEomkVUSUSHchMsuz97-Bbut3YYsWGgYj5itjcgjs-And023jkZ64U7aglBqyX1IU5dwvrpBZU5EQVXmO6J9it-BWOgxyFWWbf8dCONP4IXHX/s320/Picture+051.jpg" /></a></div><br />
The Marder series of armored vehicles were a German effort to self-propel their anti-tank artillery. The very first vehicle in the series, the Marder I, mounted a Czech 47mm anti-tank gun on a Panzer I chassis, and would set the stage for the shape these vehicles would take. The Marder II series mounted the captured 76.2mm (rebored for 75mm) Soviet field gun, while the Marder III series mounted the reliable 75mm PAK 40 anti-tank gun. A variety of chassis were used for both the Marder II and III, but mostly consisting of the Panzer II and the Panzer 38(t). The "M" variant was the final form these vehicles would take, with the engine mounted in the middle of the vehicle, and the fighting compartment moved to the rear. This allowed for a much larger fighting compartment and thus better "fightability."<br />
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Tamiya's model depicts the Marder IIIM, the final type of this vehicle series. Overall the kit moldings are nothing short of spectacular, with a great amount of detail. More importantly, however, is the hull. Gone are the clunky cast metal hull tubs, and instead this area is depicted in multi-part plastic instead, with a commensurate increase in detail. There are metal weights supplied to give the model "heft," but in my opinion this feature is absolutely useless and adds nothing to the kit (an artifact of the "collectibles" market were "heft" is perceived as having better quality, despite the fact this has no basis in reality).<br />
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Also of note is the very nice PAK 40 75mm L/46. This also has loads of detail, and would make a nice basis for towed PAK 40 (which would only need a carriage -- hint to Tamiya). Finally, the kit includes a single figure, which like many Tamiya figures is a bit on the small side. I will most likely assemble it, but depending on final measurements I may or may not actually use it.Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-83610191500124664482010-05-08T10:25:00.000-04:002010-05-08T10:25:44.964-04:00Project: M-8 Greyhound Armored Car Progress I<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0z2X6eFslsmTbdn9EegmMnTuJQLpFYACWMPDAAHtt-mdZEm1CqNAZNXMuZGyiqSvSAoAGXjEGqzeEuPSJFOGTZXfFQN16-uS2lzyAQ9GsZEmU3z95DZm_tIM1QZo57eL6CUIZiGqxh8gQ/s1600/Picture+050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0z2X6eFslsmTbdn9EegmMnTuJQLpFYACWMPDAAHtt-mdZEm1CqNAZNXMuZGyiqSvSAoAGXjEGqzeEuPSJFOGTZXfFQN16-uS2lzyAQ9GsZEmU3z95DZm_tIM1QZo57eL6CUIZiGqxh8gQ/s320/Picture+050.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Like any OOB (Out Of the Box) build, construction is fast, especially in 1/48 scale. The entire build time took perhaps 3 hours spread over the course of a few evenings. One of the techniques I have been using is building in "micro-sessions" of perhaps 15min or so spread out over an entire night. I found that when I had longer sessions, I spent an inordinate amount of time staring at the directions or waiting for things to dry. But spending only 15 minutes or so building meant that there was less wasted time.<br />
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Here essentially construction is complete. The only details that must be added are the wheels (left off for painting) and the fenders (for the same reason. This vehicle will get a primer coat of Testors Enamel in a spray can, before airbrushing with Polly Scale Olive Drab (my preferred brand for this color).<br />
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Although the kit comes with a figure, it looks like it falls short like many Tamiya kit figures in this scale, literally. Many Tamiya figures scale in at around 5'4", making them a little short. While soldiers of this size were not unknown in WWII, it would have been nice to get a figure with a little more height. What I may do is pose him standing in the vehicle while looking off in the distance with his binoculars. This should make his height deficiency less apparent. I'll have to come up with a gunner from somewhere, perhaps aftermarket.Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-58166622809191103422010-05-05T18:21:00.000-04:002010-05-05T18:21:39.579-04:00Project: 1/48 M8 Greyhound Armored Car<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz2lePtKuSjTp-pxEi41E3opoq_qit4fdMJTG6YhjamZfg-0GsUDqWx_TP09lkGIVDFVMxD5Ur_xMFw8Dcy1tx4KZM1Y4Soa4vpvYuf449-L3WlBOZRE7zx_smDYgjR-Y4XklyXGkAKZ1U/s1600/Picture+049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz2lePtKuSjTp-pxEi41E3opoq_qit4fdMJTG6YhjamZfg-0GsUDqWx_TP09lkGIVDFVMxD5Ur_xMFw8Dcy1tx4KZM1Y4Soa4vpvYuf449-L3WlBOZRE7zx_smDYgjR-Y4XklyXGkAKZ1U/s320/Picture+049.jpg" /></a></div><br />
The M8 Armored Car was the standard of its type used by the US Army during WWII. Developed from a family of different armored car designs, the US Army selected the 6-wheeled vehicle as the best compromise between mobility, weight, and protection. Although there were larger armored cars (with armor approaching that of a medium tank), for the selected role of reconnaisance and cavalry duties, the vehicle was potent enough for the job.<br />
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The M8 mounts a 37mm anti-tank cannon, the same as fitted to the M3/M5 Stuart family, and could fire AP, HE, and Cannister rounds. Backing this up was a .30 (7.62mm) M1919 machine gun, and a .50 (12.7mm) M2HB machine gun. Early models had the heavy machine gun mounted on a simple pintle mount at the back of the turret, but later designs replaced this with a ring mount for improved 360<sup>o</sup> coverage.<br />
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Like the <a href="http://minislikedust.blogspot.com/2010/04/project-148-su-122.html">SU-122</a>, this kit is another OOB (Out Of the Box) build, and there is not much needed to improve it on the outside. That being said, the interior is very sparse, with only the turret floor and crew seats in the turret (thus lacking things like the ready-rack for the 37mm cannon), and having absolutely no detail in the driver's compartment. This is less of an issue with a vehicle like this, since not much of the interior can be seen anyway, but the turret details are sparse enough as it is, and could have used a few more details in this area.Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-30323486857746656212010-05-03T18:48:00.000-04:002010-05-03T18:48:18.375-04:00Project: 1/48 SU-122 Progress I<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHubDiJ_WjAodfccFhlmK1HyRyth8ExxO6ZN2aTJchZWizlQKF_33ukz0Y57s-78kPuntOjB243APi9Dx29LT0k-ndJzHsgBZnVO4ZjeUebno9ByAUDsUHDinKZ190D8dzJArz46aUeryI/s1600/Picture+048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHubDiJ_WjAodfccFhlmK1HyRyth8ExxO6ZN2aTJchZWizlQKF_33ukz0Y57s-78kPuntOjB243APi9Dx29LT0k-ndJzHsgBZnVO4ZjeUebno9ByAUDsUHDinKZ190D8dzJArz46aUeryI/s320/Picture+048.jpg" /></a></div><br />
As I had mentioned in the last installment of this project blog, I intend to build this kit mostly OOB. This consequently means a fast build, so here is the progress so far.<br />
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Construction on this kit is essentially done. There were no real hang-ups in the construction process, and it (like most Tamiya kits) went together almost flawlessly. Especially nice were the auxiliary fuel tanks on the hull rear, which had the seams cunningly hidden via the construction process. It still pays to clean up the seams, but this method goes a long way to improving the look of the kit.<br />
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Also of note is that the kit possesses adjustable idler mounts. This means that the modeler can adjust track tension to make sure the tracks fit perfectly. While this is a good idea, I still managed to have a gap in the tracks (though I hid it for the most part under a fender). If I adjust the idler back anymore, it will rub against the first road wheel (these tanks had rear-mounted transmissions, and thus were rear wheel drive). In the future, it might be better to simply add a link to the tracks (the kit gives you a few spares) and see how that works.<br />
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The kit in the photo has been primed using Testors Enamel Light Gull Gray in the spray can. This will provide a nice, neutral base for further coats of paint. Also because it is an enamel (and using an organic solvent it is slightly "hot," producing a better chemical bond to the plastic) it will better hold the paint for follow-up coats. Also the tracks as can be seen are constructed to be removed, and have been primed black, to give it a good foundation for producing a steel metallic color.Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-8802392904262482682010-04-21T14:38:00.000-04:002010-04-21T14:38:24.621-04:00Project: Grenadier Dragon Lords Red Dragon Progress I<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHFwYeqw2qarCQ8aM0hn791ZqFz9ZXfTrSy3o4OOf3rJXew_6ZD3ekGAU9qEVk7E_AYxnbkoVGAanB5qmMCgp9pGRdSJb-CPsq3EYRVVjMwZbeeXFxHwClwyEgsLZOkKChIFGu2Ei653Qp/s1600/Picture+046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHFwYeqw2qarCQ8aM0hn791ZqFz9ZXfTrSy3o4OOf3rJXew_6ZD3ekGAU9qEVk7E_AYxnbkoVGAanB5qmMCgp9pGRdSJb-CPsq3EYRVVjMwZbeeXFxHwClwyEgsLZOkKChIFGu2Ei653Qp/s320/Picture+046.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Here is the old girl fully assembled with its first coat of primer.<br />
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One of the interesting points about this project was the construction sequence. As can be seen in the photo, this dragon has very large wings. And, being molded in lead alloy, they are also consequently <i>heavy. </i>Therefore, it took quite a bit more work to assemble this model than I had initially expected.<br />
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As usual I used 5-minute epoxy during the assembly process. Unfortunately, I did not have anything appropriate to prop up the wings while the epoxy cured, so I physically had to sit and hold the wings together while the epoxy cured. I had attempted to time the process, so I wouldn't have to hold them together for the whole 5 minutes, but even after the epoxy's "working time" expired, I had to continue to hold the wings for an extended period of time until the epoxy cured enough on its own. After that, the rest of the assembly process was trivial.<br />
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The figure was mounted on a plastic 50mm round base sourced from <a href="http://www.em4miniatures.com/">EM-4</a>. They come in a bag of 5 for £1.50, not bad in this era of eCommerce and cheap shipping from the UK Royal Post. This base roughly coincides with a Large-sized Red Dragon by D&D 3/3.5/Pathfinder rules.<br />
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Next up will be the first basecoat. Thanks to the white primer, a coat of Citadel's <a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat160002&prodId=prod810857">Blood Red</a> should produce a brilliant red color.Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-58148294960330240792010-04-20T13:24:00.000-04:002010-04-20T13:24:54.848-04:00Project: 1/48 SU-122<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMN3MRr8vk7fBHN2zOgNGvr3N2_nerWL_WdqM5QRB6VtDMOcnO1jQO7_Nf4L5lNhYzJJjFQmS1P5E_Ci3hIF6AnOiaRJKnjWUr5g7i1wArjAdu5ITFu-ohzI56vYzpW6Z__QJ9YxmCJ7Y2/s1600/Picture+047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMN3MRr8vk7fBHN2zOgNGvr3N2_nerWL_WdqM5QRB6VtDMOcnO1jQO7_Nf4L5lNhYzJJjFQmS1P5E_Ci3hIF6AnOiaRJKnjWUr5g7i1wArjAdu5ITFu-ohzI56vYzpW6Z__QJ9YxmCJ7Y2/s320/Picture+047.jpg" /></a></div><br />
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The SU-122 was designed in response to the use of self-propelled assault guns by the German Army in WWII. Vehicles like the StuG III were designed to provide direct-fire artillery support to infantry troops on the battlefield, and be able to resist anti-tank weapons of the time. Based on the proven T-34 chassis the SU-122 (designation refers to the caliber of cannon used, in this case a 122mm howitzer) was more powerful than its German counterparts, able to throw a much larger shell.<br />
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Tamiya has followed up on their T-34 kit with this SU-122, and it's definitely a nice model. After working on a number of complex builds using after-market parts. I intend for this to be an "Out of the Box" build: simple and not encumbered by large numbers of after-market parts (in fact, I'll be building the model unmodified, with perhaps a bit of stowage). Expect some updates soon.Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-87998958474173332432010-04-17T17:20:00.002-04:002010-04-17T17:23:43.936-04:00Project: 1/48 ACE ZU-23-2One of the results of the thawing of the Cold War and liberalization of the economies of Eastern Europe is it allowed a lot of entrepreneurial-ism, which has been nothing but good for model builders. Hailing out of Kiev, Ukraine, ACE models has for several years concentrated on manufacturing small scale (1/72) armor kits and the like. Using limited run plastic injection molding technology, the ACE kits were always for more experienced modelers, and a little on the rough side. That being said, they also manufactured kits not produced anywhere else before or since, mainly concentrating on Eastern European designs, with a smattering of western designs as well.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.acemodel.com.ua/pages/models/48101/48101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="177" src="http://www.acemodel.com.ua/pages/models/48101/48101.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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The ZU-23-2 (kit # 48101) is ACE's first foray into the world of 1/48 scale modeling. I have to say, its a pretty nice kit, and much better than my memories of their older 1/72 scale kits.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.acemodel.com.ua/pages/models/part/zu_23_48_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="198" src="http://www.acemodel.com.ua/pages/models/part/zu_23_48_1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> <br />
The ZU-23-2 was one of the standard Soviet light anti-aircraft cannons, and is still in use today with a number of operators. Firing a 23mm shell, it is designed to be a more potent successor to the ZPU system (which mounted 14.5mm machine guns). Although lacking many of the modern aiming aids such as radar direction, it is simple, easy to use, and useful against both aerial targets (especially helicopters) and ground targets. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.acemodel.com.ua/pages/models/part/zu_23_48_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="195" src="http://www.acemodel.com.ua/pages/models/part/zu_23_48_2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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As can be seen from the sprue shots (these are taken from ACE's website, by the way), the kit includes 4 sprues, with 2 identical. The quality of the moldings are very good, and while some of the parts still have thick gates to be removed, the quality and finesse of the parts are better than older kits.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.acemodel.com.ua/pages/models/part/zu_23_48_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="207" src="http://www.acemodel.com.ua/pages/models/part/zu_23_48_3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
I have to admit, one of the reasons I bought this kit was to encourage ACE to do more in this scale. With a grand total of 2 different model kits of modern molding quality currently in plastic (unless you include the old Tamiya/Academy/Arii battery powered carpet crawlers, or the equally dreadful and not especially accurate Kitech/Zhengdefu kits), there's not a lot that can go with this kit, unless you resort to resin. But still, it's a very nice kit, and looks like it will be a fun project.Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-32629604832307346282010-04-12T18:25:00.000-04:002010-04-12T18:25:14.124-04:00Project: Grenadier Dragon Lords Red Dragon<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLMb-Nww5jeW_8e9quaiy-jfqr9h9esfC0gv2cV5IeIZOOtfwVO4pE3kgpp0xIgVVJJoHVjHprblvL4mp9Y98hJ74QJwAZ68yLV2AU7B9EoeIqR0r2lOCOpfyxiODJOoRbQSZnME-y9gZY/s1600/Picture+044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLMb-Nww5jeW_8e9quaiy-jfqr9h9esfC0gv2cV5IeIZOOtfwVO4pE3kgpp0xIgVVJJoHVjHprblvL4mp9Y98hJ74QJwAZ68yLV2AU7B9EoeIqR0r2lOCOpfyxiODJOoRbQSZnME-y9gZY/s320/Picture+044.jpg" /></a></div><br />
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Over the course of this blog, I've come to the realization that it's mostly about model building, and not much about minis. So on that note I offer the first project focused on minis. And it is a classic.<br />
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Grenadier was one of the older, more venerable figure manufacturers in the realm of fantasy and SF gaming. Although they had a historical line, they are much more well known for the fantasy and licensed properties they produced miniatures for. Although now gone, for many gamers of D&D and AD&D in the late '70s and '80s, Grenadier was an important foundation to any collection (at least here in the US).<br />
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Around 1984, Grenadier started the "Dragon of the Month" series, producing a single dragon every month for a year. This included the 5 Chromatic dragons (White, Red, Blue, Green, Black), the 5 Metallic Dragons (Brass, Bronze, Copper, Gold, Silver), the Platinum Dragon, and the Spectral Dragon (aka Tiamat of AD&D fame). Each boxed set came with the dragon in question, as well as a small pedistal with a plastic gem. When complete, the pedestals formed a ring of gems, one for each color. It was a fun and cool accessory, and created a reason to collect them all.<br />
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The Dragons of the Month series, by modern standards, is a little primitive in sculpting. There are certainly better, more detailed dragons on the market (including Grenadier's second series: "Dragons of the Month II"), but in my opinion, a lot of the old Grenadier miniatures have a certain charm, and I've taken it upon myself to collect a lot of these old dragons, for use in either D&D or just to simply have.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW2uX1jqgATYsqkzS6qLsVdMFtPIt2Hj2vaQP5j3wZaYRupQ6vdjsK9xlQKM7BKRatFcUcSLse6jDKpwDN-dk5IWvsGA7yluK5tNlLrPa4qB2tFZjySA2KToVXCi0Q0rulOJouebww-axN/s1600/Picture+045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW2uX1jqgATYsqkzS6qLsVdMFtPIt2Hj2vaQP5j3wZaYRupQ6vdjsK9xlQKM7BKRatFcUcSLse6jDKpwDN-dk5IWvsGA7yluK5tNlLrPa4qB2tFZjySA2KToVXCi0Q0rulOJouebww-axN/s320/Picture+045.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Here is the dragon before assembly. This model was molded in lead, rather than the pewter alloys a lot of fantasy figures are currently manufactured in. This means the figure is rather heavy but fairly soft and malleable. That being said, epoxy will be used exclusively in the construction of this figure.<br />
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Another property of Grenadier's alloys is that they tend to have a fair bit of flash. With lead alloys this is not as much a problem as with pewter, as the alloy files much easier, but nonetheless it will require quite a bit more clean-up compared to many modern figures. Looking at the pedestal, there is quite a bit of flash around it (indeed, all of the figures I've acquired so far have flash issues).<br />
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One interesting note: the Grenadier molds are now the property of <a href="http://www.mirliton.it/">Mirliton </a>Miniatures of Italy. As far as I know, only one dragon from the orginal Dragon Lords line has been released by them: the Brass. However, most of the Dragon Lords II line is available, though of course without the accessories in the original Grenadier boxes.Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-54428749387544219732010-04-06T17:06:00.000-04:002010-04-06T17:06:51.535-04:00Project: 1/48 Panzer III Ausf.M Progress III<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF4-amJsV_uZuvmjUKrtHd1O8HMg-eC8fUbucmGhdUpwrhN7CPcHcCVBbdU1bhqRGVR4OfgkGAM5zZk3wSm1pJAkOqanNihjFFz-ySh2po7nOqbd1UtKF87wcoERNrl76J2gczoW-LF-yV/s1600/Picture+043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF4-amJsV_uZuvmjUKrtHd1O8HMg-eC8fUbucmGhdUpwrhN7CPcHcCVBbdU1bhqRGVR4OfgkGAM5zZk3wSm1pJAkOqanNihjFFz-ySh2po7nOqbd1UtKF87wcoERNrl76J2gczoW-LF-yV/s320/Picture+043.jpg" /></a></div>The Panzer IIIM is nearing completion. Here not only have I applied the basecoat of paint, but also the camouflage scheme. This was done using the fine tip and needle in my Paasche VLS double action airbrush. With thinned Tamiya Olive Green <a href="http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=81358">XF-58</a> paint (the basecoat was again Tamiya Dark Yellow <a href="http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=81360">XF-60</a>). With the needle pulled back only slightly, and with the paint thinned to a skim milk-like consistency, it is possible to get pencil thin lines with some skill and precision. Unfortunately, I think I needed to thin the paint a bit more, as there was a slight bit of splatter, but given these tanks were painted by the crew with whatever skills they were able to bring, neatness was not always the norm either.<br />
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The Echelon Fine Decals have been applied, and these are definitely some of the finest on the market. The decals were silk screened, rather than printed via a lithograph process or on a color printer. This means they are not only very rich and dense in colors (such as they are, here only 2 -- black and white), but also a pleasure to work with. They are also very thin, meaning there is less work I need to do to make them look like something other than a decal! I used my standard process for applying these decals: the model was first airbrushed in Future Floor Acrylic Finish (using the coarse tip and needle, and the Future unthinned), then the decals applied with a little Solvaset to make sure they snuggle down onto the model. Afterward, a second coat of Future seals the work.<br />
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The suspension components on the tracks have also been painted, again using the fine tip in my airbrush. This can be a tedious process, but the results speak for themselves. I still need to paint the front half of the road wheels and return rollers, but so far I am pleased with how they came out. Interestingly, when highly thinned, Tamiya paints take on a semi-gloss aspect. Not that it really matters all that much...<br />
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The next step in this process is to allow the clearcoat to dry thoroughly (usually a process of several days; for Future I use the old technique of waiting until it doesn't smell of Future anymore!), and a dullcoat likely using Polly Scale Acrylic clear flat, with a little Tamiya Flat Base <a href="http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=81021">X-21</a> mixed in (note: it always bears repeating that X-21 is <i>not </i>a clear flat, but a paint additive to make dull paints!).Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-62345258356834207942010-03-26T17:13:00.001-04:002010-03-28T18:31:39.573-04:00"The Stash"<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3KoslX4R-F4fFJbXn_tEUTtTaODsb98kXgAM4k1bV1i0ROFFgXwqKGcPk-zEMiNpKJROSAuNaYF2ZsPkqdn8bzvU7aPhGMKKVJy6BJ88BysLggbg-FKCQtArzNsGOA_ab53szesrr-cER/s1600/Picture+041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3KoslX4R-F4fFJbXn_tEUTtTaODsb98kXgAM4k1bV1i0ROFFgXwqKGcPk-zEMiNpKJROSAuNaYF2ZsPkqdn8bzvU7aPhGMKKVJy6BJ88BysLggbg-FKCQtArzNsGOA_ab53szesrr-cER/s320/Picture+041.jpg" /></a></div><br />
One of the curious things about being a hobbyist (such as a model builder or a wargamer) is that over time one tends to collect a "stash" (or in wargaming circles, a lead pile). This is mainly due to the phenomenon of having more money than time to build, coupled with ambition. Thus I thought it would be fun to document my "stash" and see if it grows smaller over time, or larger (far more likely).<br />
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The picture above is of an old bookcase stuffed with kits. It has become such that the overflow is now resting on the shade of a lamp! This is all in my basement, where level of clutter is irrelevant to the rest of the family (except perhaps as a fire hazard). This is for the most part the "1/35" stash, as the main constituents are 1/35 scale models. There a a few ship models that managed to get in there somehow. As can be seen my stash has a fairly diverse subject matter, spanning from WWII to modern.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW9NEGs8FNmEXvtE9rdqoyOrIEvStUAVRKwZsSXq2UEHrZwEy5DFkPLuBLPbHbFdsCl07X6A38aK-NTiKq6S1fgHaOk1axiZUkCi7A51kgPGWkeKxoMaXGtvaFqSNJJETNgPC97sE4JRxj/s1600/Picture+042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW9NEGs8FNmEXvtE9rdqoyOrIEvStUAVRKwZsSXq2UEHrZwEy5DFkPLuBLPbHbFdsCl07X6A38aK-NTiKq6S1fgHaOk1axiZUkCi7A51kgPGWkeKxoMaXGtvaFqSNJJETNgPC97sE4JRxj/s320/Picture+042.jpg" /></a></div>This second picture represents the other half of the stash. Here we have my collection of 1/48 scale models, as well as a couple aircraft kits and some SF stuff. The top shelf is mostly dedicated to wargames figures: in the collection you should be able to see both Warhammer Fantasy/40K items, some historicals, as well as a few figures where the primer is still curing. In the tool trays at the very back are plastic and metal bases, as well as my collection of unfinished 15mm figures. It's a large collection because 15mm is (for the most part) cheap. One thing to note is that the shelves with my model kits are double depth!<br />
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I cannot imagine how much money this investment represents, and I would probably be better of not calculating its worth. That being said, it is a hobby, and it brings me a certain measure of happiness. Thankfully I have a big basement (aka "The Man Cave"), and plenty of other corners to stash my stuff.Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-61846580286095119312010-03-19T17:23:00.000-04:002010-03-19T17:23:20.887-04:00Project: 1/48 Panzer III Ausf.M Progress II<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj36bJz2xVmOiCOD9YXzWFK3qAMRbf6JF-38AYs07PD28-9dC4AaXhG1PJnyrPYp1uJddIoq0PMGKDROD2qFYxjbga7ZKcpBtLe3NRMr5BRARElyDjdiHFo4tbGIJySeEmenq5YRsZW6an3/s1600-h/Picture+040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj36bJz2xVmOiCOD9YXzWFK3qAMRbf6JF-38AYs07PD28-9dC4AaXhG1PJnyrPYp1uJddIoq0PMGKDROD2qFYxjbga7ZKcpBtLe3NRMr5BRARElyDjdiHFo4tbGIJySeEmenq5YRsZW6an3/s320/Picture+040.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Made a little progress on the Panzer IIIM project. As can be seen here, the turret is complete in terms of construction. When mounting the main armament to the turret, Hauler fails to provide much of a mounting area, just a blank space behind where the mantlet goes. I can only assume that Hauler intends the builder to simply butt-glue the mantlet to the turret, but this creates unsightly gaps either on the top of the mounting, or below (depending on what elevation you desire). I resolved this by cutting the plastic mounting piece from the kit in half, and then gluing it into the space provided. Although not called out in the conversion's instructions, I assume this is what Hauler intended. Nonetheless, cutting the component along the seam lines means the cannon is super-elevated. Not really much of a problem as I rarely depict models in the act of an actual engagement, but I would have at least liked a choice.<br />
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The Panzer IIIM moved the headlights from the hull front to the fenders, as I had mentioned in my previous post. Hauler provides new mounts and headlights, but unfortunately, while removing one of the headlights, it promptly fell on the floor and disappeared! I can rarely get through a project without losing a piece or two, and for this one it was a headlight. Luckily Hauler provides the correct types as a separate set, so I promptly ordered a new set (which has not arrived yet). <br />
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The smoke grenade launchers on the side of the turret are also offered as a seperate upgrade kit for people building the Panzer IIIN (Tamiya doesn't provide these), or upgrading the IIIL for a Kursk era machine. Given that, I have some experience with these components, and I while I think Hauler puts out an excellent product, these components are not one of their best efforts in my opinion. The set does give you some variety, providing both loaded and expended launchers. Unfortunately, however, you only get 8 mortars, (you need to use 6), with 4 loaded, and 4 expended mortars. Again, it would have been nice to have a total of 12 mortars to depict a vehicle at full load out, or perhaps one that has already expended all of it's smoke grenades.<br />
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That, however, is a minor complaint compared to the photo-etch mounting brackets.The big problem here is that each smoke grenade is supposed to be angled slightly in order to clear it's neighbor. The photo-etch mounting bracket unfortunately lacks relief-etch fold lines to aid the modeler. This means that without special tools it is very hard to get a good fold, and really a special PE folding device is recommended. I don't have one of these, so I instead scribed the brass to provide a "weak" point to fold at. It wasn't entirely successful, and as a result, the bend is a little more sloppy than I would like. I'm going to have to live with it, but if Hauler happens to be reading, I <i>highly </i>reccomend adding relief-etch fold lines to these components!<br />
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The suspension has already been spray-painted black in preparation for further painting. Normally, I weather the tracks and then hand-paint the wheels. This time, however, I think I'll do things a little different and use the fine needle in my airbrush to spray them instead. Hopefully, with enough patience and skill, I can minimize over-spray on the tracks themselves. <br />
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Finally, with the suspension components fully assembled, I joined the lower and upper hulls permanently. On the Tamiya kits with metal hulls, this is usually facilitated by a pair of screws. I personally dislike this as again it reduced the number of options one can do with the kit. In the case of the Panzer III series kits, the mounting holes are covered by one of the transmission access hatch and one of the engine access hatches in the rear. Some other kits, however, have the mounting points through crew hatches and such. In many ways this reminds me of the early DML 1/72 scale kits, which similarly had cast metal components and screw together assembly. These compromises were made because the true purpose of the kits were for the collectible, pre-constructed and pre-painted market. This market for whatever reason values weight and metal as equaling quality, <i>despite the fact that metal cannot hold fine detail as well as plastic. </i>Unfortunately, it is one of the things we must live with, as the actual model-<i>building </i>market is of secondary importance.<br />
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I'm actually planning on painting the turret in short order, mainly so I can start applying decals. For some people, the decalling stage is a chore; for me, a good set of quality silk-screened decals are a pleasure, and one of my favorite aspects of this project.Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-66220469545324722982010-03-06T17:19:00.000-05:002010-03-06T17:19:19.037-05:00Project: 1/48 Panzer III Ausf. M Progress I<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbX738bttmy_EnLlQc1-6uAyYnYvl-RoOrGqO6TwvS3MhksW0BNY_GeGh9zOrSsZE9gYOoR6YCzmWuxycoI7hVpAiN6eX1dH_JUJvxB3h5O0vifYjiDrvhoUplZA5wDk2V4Ig98UXDOvu2/s1600-h/Picture+039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbX738bttmy_EnLlQc1-6uAyYnYvl-RoOrGqO6TwvS3MhksW0BNY_GeGh9zOrSsZE9gYOoR6YCzmWuxycoI7hVpAiN6eX1dH_JUJvxB3h5O0vifYjiDrvhoUplZA5wDk2V4Ig98UXDOvu2/s320/Picture+039.jpg" /></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here is the progress on this model so far. I am approximately half-way through the construction phase. The conversion from an Ausf.L to an Ausf.M requires a little bit of modification to the base kit, as well as a brand new turret. The white spots on the front of the hull are where I filled the mounts for the headlights -- the M model moved these to the fenders. Although it cannot be seen in this photo, the rear mounts for the mufflers were also filled as the Ausf. M has a new deep wading muffler. Also not seen here is the rear hull muffler mount. Installation of this component required cutting down the lower rear hull piece just above the idler mounts. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Also seen here is the right side suspension components, fully assembled. There was a gap of approximately half a link, which I partially hid by stretching the track components, and also hiding under one of the fenders. I have had similar problems with all of Tamiya's Panzer III based kits, so I can only assume this is a flaw in the kit.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">When assembling the tracks on kits with hard plastic components, I will often glue them together before painting (if possible) for a stronger assembly. In the past I had tried assembling the tracks after painting, but the bond with super glue never held well (you are, after all, bonding one paint layer to another), and epoxy was both more messy and more time intensive. After the tracks are fully assembled, I remove the entire assembly, complete with wheels, and then paint the components as necessary. This both creates a strong assembly as well as a more neat appearance. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">One thing that is always tricky to do -- but very important when working on a conversion -- is coordinating the two sets of instructions, both the kit's and the conversion's. I accidentially jumped ahead and mounted the engine intakes without adding the photo-etch frames (the gray parts on the upper rear hull -- on the real tank these were hinged so that the intakes can be sealed for deep wading). This is going to require me to modify the parts in order to fit them on the kit, requiring extra work. On the other hand, it has to be said that the photo etch parts might interfere with a good bond to the hull, so in the end this mistake might be for the better.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Still to be done is completion of the left side suspension components, completion of the turret (still needs the door stops installed, the barrel contoured, stowage bin latches installed, and the turret hatch installed), and of course the finishing touches on the upper hull (tools, headlights and bow machine gun) then it's off to paint. Discussing with the publisher of the decals, I will paint this vehicle in a scheme of dark yellow for a basecoat, and a splotchy pattern of dark green, similar to many of the tanks serving at Kursk.</div>Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-22777137285366287832010-03-04T18:59:00.000-05:002010-03-04T18:59:29.207-05:00Project: 1/48 Panzer III Ausf. M Conversion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3pYJckm_1g-pZSOGrlUGVy9tpery6osI2-K-eS_tw8IpO0g1PXO2kB_FjXhcqWni3pmI0Xx8cm6ix24Su742NFM1oiNC3TGST3I1txL-Bw1lfAxKZJnKkgOM3LnG9mkr5tUq5hx4lyr1O/s1600-h/Picture+038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3pYJckm_1g-pZSOGrlUGVy9tpery6osI2-K-eS_tw8IpO0g1PXO2kB_FjXhcqWni3pmI0Xx8cm6ix24Su742NFM1oiNC3TGST3I1txL-Bw1lfAxKZJnKkgOM3LnG9mkr5tUq5hx4lyr1O/s320/Picture+038.jpg" /></a></div><br />
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By 1943, the Panzer III was starting to show it's obsolescence. Although the 50mm KwK 39 L/60 was still capable of knocking out a T-34, it was outclassed by many of the newer and heavier tanks then coming into service (such as the older KV-1 and the much more effective KV-85, not to mention the JS-II coming into service in the spring of 1944). Nonetheless, the Panzer III continued to serve into 1943 in a frontline role, and till the end of the war in peripheral theaters.<br />
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The <span class="found">Ausf</span>ührung (model) M, produced between 1942 and 1943, was a minor upgrade of the Ausf. L model, equipped with deep wading gear. Only 250 vehicles were produced, with some incomplete chassis being redirected to StuG III manufacture, due to the obsolescence of the model.<br />
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Tamiya has produced a very nice kit of the Ausf. L version of the tank, but no such parts exist currently to make an Ausf. M. to the rescue comes <a href="http://www.hauler.cz/">Hauler</a>. Long a very firm supporter of the 1/48 scale, Hauler produced two conversion kits for this model: both an "early" variant as well as a "late" variant. I chose the latter as it incorporated some of the features I wanted on my model.<br />
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Originally, I had intended to use the skirt armor from Tamiya's Panzer IIIN (many of which were not equipped on vehicles serving in North Africa), but unfortunately, the decal sheet I selected for this project (from <a href="http://pachome1.pacific.net.sg/%7Ekriegsketten/">Echelon Fine Details</a>) only had markings for an M <i>without</i> skirt armor (in this case, the Regimental Command tank 2.SS-Pz.Rgt "Das Reich") serving in the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Kursk">Battle of Kursk </a>in 1943 (note: on the Wikipedia article site, another Regimental command tank for "Das Reich" can be seen, this model being a short-barreled Ausf. J variant). So be it: the decal sheet also has markings for an Ausf. L "Das Reich" machine with skirt armor, so that'll go to a future project!<br />
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The summary of parts I'm using for this project include: Tamiya's Panzer III Ausf. L kit; Hauler's Panzer IIIM "Late" conversion kit; Hauler's Panzer III stowage bin, and the Echelon Fine Details decal sheet.Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676815580753573679.post-9934590502787985492010-03-03T11:29:00.000-05:002010-03-03T11:29:13.978-05:00Project: 1/48 M4A1 Sherman Progress II<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU9d-52uZJM5Z43QLX3lfuTSjnLtZM6-hX9glJOc3srDW_-aqInbEMnBbA-c4xvrP9V63frTr4iv-kjTquS9dXmP_Kp_25eTtsDBoSoNWvxSKvtNta8Zwkb3GB4JZODUmED2MIQo_IMnwY/s1600-h/Picture+037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU9d-52uZJM5Z43QLX3lfuTSjnLtZM6-hX9glJOc3srDW_-aqInbEMnBbA-c4xvrP9V63frTr4iv-kjTquS9dXmP_Kp_25eTtsDBoSoNWvxSKvtNta8Zwkb3GB4JZODUmED2MIQo_IMnwY/s320/Picture+037.jpg" /></a></div><br />
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The model is starting to shape up. As can be seen in the photo, tracks have been assembled and applied to the model. There are still a few odds and ends that need to be finished up (such as painting the hull machine gun and final assembly on the aftermarket Verlinden .50 caliber machine gun) and then it is on to weathering.<br />
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The tank represents a vehicle used in France during the summer of 1944 by the 7th Armored Division. As the division first entered combat on 13 August 1944, this would place it in the vicinity of Chartres, Dreux and Melun, later Verdun. Being high summer, and after the heavy rains of the initial Normandy landings, this tank would be most suitable in a dusty weathering scheme, which is what I intend to go with.<br />
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For a diorama, I'm thinking something a little more urban. As the division was a central figure in the liberation of Chartres, something with this subject matter might be a good choice. Chartres was heavily damaged in the fighting, so ruined buildings would create an interesting modeling opportunity. Unfortunately I am unable to find many photos of the period for the city so I'm at a loss as to how to proceed. More research is clearly needed...Damonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16387464729775242559noreply@blogger.com0