Dragon's kit depicts an early model, the F version. This was the 2nd main production version, differing only slightly from the Ausf E version (armored covers for the brake cooling system, and a modified engine). Indeed, at first glance it looks like one could build an E if you wanted to. While many Ausf E's and F's were later remanufactured with the 50mm L/42 KwK, this kit depicts the earlier variant still armed with the 37mm L/45 KwK, as well as twin coaxial machine guns.
I remember Dragon back in the old days, when they were issuing mostly 1/144 aircraft, and a small portfolio of their own original kits: mostly Soviet vehicles that suffer today from inadequate research (this was in the late '80s) and/or toylike features (operating hatches on the BMP, BTR, and BRDM series kits, seriously compromising detail). Later they would being issuing kits using molds from other manufacturers, such as Gunze and Italeri, with modified or reworked parts where neccessary. Eventually they would issue better kits, and this model is a long way from those early days.
If I could use one word to sum up this kit it is complex. I didn't do a parts count, but there are quite a few, along with Dragon's "Magic Track" and a fret of brass photo-etch parts. As usual, Dragon likes to get the most from their molds, and there is always a slight feeling of mix-'n-match with their kits. In this box alone there are sprues from their StuGIII and Panzer IV kits, alongside some sprues from other versions of the Pz III (Like the J model). This also means you sometimes get multiple sprues with the same letter designation. I had at least 2 sprues labeled "A" that were completely different, as well as sprues labeled "B".
Going slow is the way to build these kits, not only because they're expensive (this kit retails for over $60, though I got mine on sale for $26!), but because all of the detail and complexity will reward a slow and deliberate build.
So far I've managed to complete the hull. I still have to mask off the torsion bar axels, as well as a few other areas, in order to prep it for priming. This kit will get the standard dark gray of early war German tanks, so I'll be using a black primer, especially as the dark gray was fairly dark when newly applied. Weathering will do the rest to fade it.
Most of the photo-etch was fairly routine to add, without a lot of complex or confusing bends. Some, however, were pretty confusing to apply, not helped by Dragon's questionable intructions. A big issue was how the two fender supports (the brass bits towards the front in the above picture) attach. It took a great deal of test fitting to get them in there. As one portion rests on the tow shackles, I reccommend installing the towing shackles first, before attaching the PE components. Also the headlights were a bear to install, with very narrow gluing points.
Here is the tail end of this kit. The little brass circles on the rear fenders are cut-outs that allow the fenders to be raised in especially muddy conditions, but allow the night formation driving lights to still be visible. These can be protected as needed by flaps, represented in the kit by either photo-etch brass, or a plastic fender with these already lowered. Using the PE is the way to go for appearance purposes, but it might be less frustrating to just use the plastic piece. I use a slight dab of super-glue to bond the part, but cappilary action seems to have pulled the glue up into the fender seams. This meant I had a lot of difficulty getting a good bond with plastic cement, and the fenders kept falling off! I think I may have it now...
Currently I am working on the commander's cupola (which came from one of their Pz IV kits...not a suprise as they were the same in the real world!), and a failing of Dragon's instructions is once again evident. Assembling the vision blocks was a chore, not because they were difficult or very tiny, but because Dragon's instructions are not clear. I reccommend gluing the vision blocks to the lower ring first -- the tab is supposed to go between vision blocks, before gluing it to the cupola drum. You are also provided with clear parts to make the actual vision blocks, and this will make painting more challenging!